Duboeuf Morgon Jean-Ernest Descombes 2008
Gamay from Beaujolais, Burgundy, France
This first-class Morgon shows perfect balance and a sumptuous bouquet of black currant, plum, violets and old fashioned roses. Elegantly smooth on the palate, revealing several layers of fresh red berries, especially cherries. The silky, prolonged finish signals completely ripened fruit.
The story behind a wine often mirrors very closely to that of an individual. For example, Jean Ernest Descombes, an immensely engaging and historical figure of our Beaujolais region, devoted thirty years of his life to creating one of the finest estates and wines in Morgon. High-spirited and known for never turning down a good time, he welcomed wine reviewers and wine-tasting professionals to come and savor some of his fantastic wines. Those who met the unusual man never forgot the intense passion he had for his craft.
An extraordinary grower, he deployed his talents in the vineyard as well as in wine making. Three-fourths of his vines are more than 50 years old, planted in the best locations, such as the favored climates of La Py, La Roche, La Pillée, Les Pillets and Bellvue. The amazing wines produced at this estate have garnered an impressive list of awards.
After Jean Ernest's departure to the "vineyard of paradise" in October 1993, his daughter, Nicole, took over with an enthusiasm that would have warmed her father's heart. In tribute, she likes to say that the personality of a wine always conjures up the person who made it. Her father's wine is anything but an exception to this axiom. Such blissful encounters with Morgon reflect flashes of eternity to those fortunate enough to taste it.
The Wine Advocate - "There are all of 2,200 cases of the 2008 Morgon Jean Descombes, which represents a perennially popular benchmark for its appellation, not to mention value. This year, black raspberry and peach preserves rush from the glass and envelop the palate with silken textural allure and an almost liqueur-like presence. Yet for all of its suggestions of sweetness, this is also more than bright enough to refresh, and grips impressively with finishing complexity of animal nuances and floral inhalation. Expect this to be worth several years of cellaring – not that one would want to miss out on its youthful charms. This wine, incidentally, is in fact domaine bottled, but has been marketed for many years exclusively by DuBoeuf, with their name also appearing prominently on the label. "
Georges Duboeuf Winery
For over 40 years Georges Duboeuf has been the Beaujolais region's most renowned négociant and is today regarded in the wine world as the "King of Beaujolais." Born in 1933 in Pouilly-Fuissé, the son of a winegrower, Georges began selling his family's wines from the back of his bicycle to now-legendary local chefs such as Paul Bocuse and Paul Blanc. In 1964, Georges realized his dream and founded his own company: Les Vins Georges Duboeuf.
Over the years, Georges has developed long-standing relationships with the region's top growers and winemakers. Georges is involved in every aspect of his enterprise and is known for his passion and his legendary palate. In 2003, the Duboeuf family opened a new, modern winery in Romanéche-Thorins. The following year, the Duboeuf and Deutsch families jointly purchased Château des Capitans in Juliénas. With annual sales of 30 million bottles, Georges Duboeuf is one of the world's best-known French brands. View all Georges Duboeuf Wines
About BeaujolaisView a map of Beaujolais wineries (boe-show-lay)
Upon hearing Beaujolais, many think of the large celebration for wine that comes out the 3rd week of November, that year's vintage of Beaujolais Nouveau. But the region of Beaujolais, situated at the bottom of the Burgundy AC, is more than just the nouveau. Some Beaujolais wines can be kept (gasp!) for up to 10 years! Those are usually the Cru Beaujolais and are much lower in production than the drink-it-now.
Even though Beaujolais is technically part of Burgundy, its climate, soil, grape varieties and winemaking methods make it completely separate in character. The primary grape of Beaujolais is Gamay, a very thin-skinned, light bodied grape that does particularly well in Beaujolais. It also does particularly well with the method of winemaking in Beaujolais – Carbonic Maceration. Carbonic maceration is anaerobic fermentation – meaning the fermentation takes place INSIDE the berry. How does this happen? Whole grape clusters are carefully put into a tank, given carbon dioxide and sealed to prevent contact with oxygen. Then a chemical process occurs inside the grape, turning sugars in to ethanol, aka alcohol. The process allows the fermenting juice to extract the color of the skins and the fruitiness of the grape without the harsh tannins of the skins. Not all Beaujolais use this method, but almost every Beaujolais Nouveau does. The result is a very fruity wine with fresh berry favors and super-light tannins and body.
The ACs of Beaujolais
Over half of the production of Beaujolais is under the Beaujolais AC. The second level is Beaujolais-Village, and the final is Beaujolais Crus, of which there are ten. Beaujolais Villages AC is a bit better quality than the first level, and the ten Crus are even higher quality. Most Cru Beaujolais AC wines use regular fermentation rather than carbonic, and some even let their wines age a bit in oak. In fact, after a few years in oak and bottle, a good vintage of Beaujolais can be mistaken for a Burgundy! But this is the exception to the rule - the majority of Beaujolais should be drunk within the first 2 years. In a good vintage a few of the cru wines may hold up for more, but Beaujolais is known for being fruity, light and easy drinking for right now. Serve a bit cool and enjoy without thought.
The 10 Cru Beaujolais to look for: Morgon, St-Amour, Juliénas, Chénas, Moulin-à-Vent, Brouilly, Côte-du-Brouilly, Fleurie, Chiroubles, Regnié.
About France - Other regionsWhen it comes to wine, France is a classic. Classic blends, grapes and styles began in the country and they still remain. Think about it - people ask for a Burgundian style Pinot Noir, they refer to wines as Bordeaux or Rhone blends - Champagne even had to pass a law to stop international wineries from putting their region on the label of all sparkling wine.
The top regions of France are: Bordeaux, Burgundy, Champagne, Languedoc-Roussillon, Loire, Rhone. And these regions are so diverse! It makes sense that wine regions throughout the world try to emulate their style. Pinot Noir, Chardonnay, Cabernet Sauvignon and Syrah are no longer French varieties, but international varieties. They may not be the leader of cutting edge technology or value-priced wines, but there is no doubt that they are still producing wines of great quality and diversity.
Customer ReviewsSign In to Add Your Review3.53.3 out of 5 stars
5 ratings, 4 with reviewsWRMdc - Washington, DC52/9/2012I absolutely loved the youth in this wine. It has typical characteristics of dark fruit balanced with bright red fruit, with a highly enjoyable silky texture on the palate. It's a great wine with if you appreciate the lighter style of gamay and beaujolais.henry sotomayor - Chicago, IL28/11/2011Ryan Young - Missoula, MT410/1/2010Being a fan of Beaujolais-Villages, I found this wine to be a deeper, more interesting expression of gamay. It even had hints of the flavors of cabernet sauvignon (esp currants) while still expressing the bright cherry flavors of a Beaujolais. Great pairing with pork!411/13/2009This is a beautiful beaujolais. People get turned off by beaujolais because of the light and young nouveau. this is a true beaujolais and is great for the holiday turkeys.34/11/2010This was very light bodied and had an extremelly high level of acidity (it has more bite than some whites), but the aroma was a bit weak. There was mabe some strawberry and weak berries, but the actual flavor was not suprisingly fairly weak. There were very light tannins the finish was sort of weak and more than anything else sour. While a decent bright red, it seemed a bit mediocre for a reported 90 point rating.