Duboeuf Morgon Jean-Ernest Descombes 2009
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Spectator
Wine -
Parker
Robert
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A deep crimson color. The nose initially offers floral aromas (violets), which then open out on to fruity aromas (blackcurrant, raspberries, wild peach). On the palate, this Morgon reveals remarkable substance and a delightful fleshiness, while the fruity aromas are confirmed. This Morgon 2009 Domaine Jean Descombes has great finesse, distinction and elegance. Good persistence. A wine poised for a great future.
This wine pairs well with lamb, turkey and venison.
Professional Ratings
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Wine Spectator
Light tannins and a smoky mineral note frame this lush red, which displays layers of black cherry, raspberry ganache and tea rose flavors. There’s a spicy thread running through the wine, leading to a fresh, firm finish.
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Robert Parker's Wine Advocate
Effusively and sweetly fruity as usual, the 2009 Morgon Jean Descombes (tasted from tank) is scented with creme de cassis, black raspberry preserves and pear liqueur; silkenly saturates the palate with rich yet infectiously juicy fruit concentrate; and introduces a saline note that along with its sense of juicy freshness makes for a stimulating finish. This perennially outstanding value will probably pick up more complexity over the next 12-18 months and be worth following for at least twice that long. (That said, in the form of La Chaponne and Mont Chavy, Jean Descombes has, for a change, got serious competition in this vintage from within the Duboeuf portfolio.)
Range: 90-91
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For over 40 years Georges Duboeuf has been the Beaujolais region's most renowned négociant and is today regarded in the wine world as the "King of Beaujolais." Born in 1933 in Pouilly-Fuissé, the son of a winegrower, Georges began selling his family's wines from the back of his bicycle to now-legendary local chefs such as Paul Bocuse and Paul Blanc. In 1964, Georges realized his dream and founded his own company: Les Vins Georges Duboeuf.
Over the years, Georges has developed long-standing relationships with the region's top growers and winemakers. Georges is involved in every aspect of his enterprise and is known for his passion and his legendary palate. In 2003, the Duboeuf family opened a new, modern winery in Romanéche-Thorins. The following year, the Duboeuf and Deutsch families jointly purchased Chateau des Capitans in Juliénas. With annual sales of 30 million bottles, Georges Duboeuf is one of the world's best-known French brands.
Delightfully playful, but also capable of impressive gravitas, Gamay is responsible for juicy, berry-packed wines. From Beaujolais, Gamay generally has three classes: Beaujolais Nouveau, a decidedly young, fruit-driven wine, Beaujolais Villages and Cru Beaujolais. The Villages and Crus are highly ranked grape growing communes whose wines are capable of improving with age whereas Nouveau, released two months after harvest, is intended for immediate consumption. Somm Secret—The ten different Crus have their own distinct personalities—Fleurie is delicate and floral, Côte de Brouilly is concentrated and elegant and Morgon is structured and age-worthy.
The bucolic region often identified as the southern part of Burgundy, Beaujolais actually doesn’t have a whole lot in common with the rest of the region in terms of climate, soil types and grape varieties. Beaujolais achieves its own identity with variations on style of one grape, Gamay.
Gamay was actually grown throughout all of Burgundy until 1395 when the Duke of Burgundy banished it south, making room for Pinot Noir to inhabit all of the “superior” hillsides of Burgundy proper. This was good news for Gamay as it produces a much better wine in the granitic soils of Beaujolais, compared with the limestone escarpments of the Côte d’Or.
Four styles of Beaujolais wines exist. The simplest, and one that has regrettably given the region a subpar reputation, is Beaujolais Nouveau. This is the Beaujolais wine that is made using carbonic maceration (a quick fermentation that results in sweet aromas) and is released on the third Thursday of November in the same year as harvest. It's meant to drink young and is flirty, fruity and fun. The rest of Beaujolais is where the serious wines are found. Aside from the wines simply labelled, Beaujolais, there are the Beaujolais-Villages wines, which must come from the hilly northern part of the region, and offer reasonable values with some gems among them. The superior sections are the cru vineyards coming from ten distinct communes: St-Amour, Juliénas, Chénas, Moulin-à-Vent, Fleurie, Chiroubles, Morgon, Regnié, Brouilly, and Côte de Brouilly. Any cru Beajolais will have its commune name prominent on the label.