Donnhoff Oberhauser Bruke Riesling Spatlese 2007
Riesling from Nahe, Germany
The Wine Advocate - "Lemon, grapefruit, red raspberry and persimmon rise from the glass of 2007 Oberhauser Brucke Riesling Spatlese, whose palate dynamics seem like chamber music after the thundering, orchestral Kupfergrube. Saline and wet stone mineral notes as well as deep, malty, nut oil richness compliment the berry and citrus and the finish here is simply ravishingly intricate."
Wine Spectator - "An elegant, playful white, with grapefruit, apricot, vanilla and mineral flavors dancing across the palate. Fine intensity and a lingering finish. "
International Wine Cellar - "Subdued aromas of wild rose, passion fruit and wild herbs. Crisp, polished peach pit flavor is given a refreshing kick by salty minerality. Delicate and quite long, this is a very refined spatlese."
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The Donnhoff family first came to the Nahe region over 200 years ago, and after establishing a modest farm slowly evolved into a full-fledged wine estate. Helmut Donnhoff has been making the wine since 1971, and now his son Cornelius works alongside in the winery and in their 25 hectares of Erste Lage, or grand cru vineyards. Their holdings represent some of the best in the Nahe and all of Germany. Oberhauser Leistenberg, the oldest vineyard held by the family, has slate soils and produces fruity wines with elegant acidity. The Schlossbockelheimer Felsenberg is a very old site with porphyry soil. Niederhauser Hermannshohle, perhaps the most famous of all the Nahe vineyards, is a slate vineyard with many conglomerates of volcanic rocks, mostly porphyry and melaphyr. The Oberhauser Brucke, the smallest vineyard in the Nahe, is a tiny parcel saddled on the Nahe River that Donnhoff owns in entirety. The Brucke has grey slate covered by loess-clay and the vines ripen even later here than in the Hermannshohle due to large diurnal temperature swings along the river. The Norheimer Dellchen is a steep terraced vineyard in a rocky hollow with porphyry and slate soil. Norheimer Kirscheck sits on a steep south slope of slate soil and produces delicately fruity wines with spice and race. The Kreuznacher Krötenpfuhl vineyard has perfect drainage due its topsoil of pebbles over loam soil; characteristic are wines with a mineralic elegance. Due to the water table that flows beneath the vineyard’s soil the Krötenpfhul has always been farmed organically, even before it was held by Dönnhoff.
Although the Nahe is a dry region, Dönnhoff does not water their vineyards as to encourage deep rooted vines. The soil is covered with organic material like straw and compost to preserve water and to avoid evaporation and erosion in heavy rains. The vines are all grown on wire frames, low to the ground to benefit from the warmth of the stoney topsoil, and at a density of approx. 6000 vines per hectare. The Riesling vines are old clones sourced from the sites in Niederhausen and Schlobbockelheim. View all Donnhoff Wines
About Other GermanView a map of Other German wineries Other regions of Germany that are producing and exporting wine to the US are the Pfaltz and Nahe. The Pfaltz region, south of the Rheingau, is making both Riesling and Gewurztraminer. These white wines are generally of excellent value. The fruit character is a bit more zingy and the acidity less sharp than the Mosel & Rheingau wines. So while often not as complex, still very refreshing and usually affordable. The Nahe region is closer to the Mosel and, like the others, produces the best wines from the Riesling grape. Diverse soils here give the wines mineral flavors, but with a broader appeal.
More landwein and tafelwein producers are creating Riesling in the dry, crisp style and exporting it to the US. These are often great values and deilcious for everyday drinking.
White Wine GuruWith some of the steepest and northernmost vineyards in the world, as well as the coolest climate, Germany produces some of the best white wines in the world, mainly Riesling. Delicate, age-worthy, intense and elegant are the typical descriptions for these wines. Note that “sweet” is not a common descriptor because the idea that most German wines are sweet is just not so. In fact, the majority of wines made in Germany are dry and more recently, the country is exporting value wines that are easy to drink, extremely food friendly and, luckily for some, containing labels that are easier to read!
The classification system of Germany is somewhat confusing. Like the rest of the old world, there's some hierarchy to it all. The categories are: Tafelwien (table wine), Landwein (land wine, similar to France's Vin de Pays) and the first “Q” level, QbA. QbA wines are easy-drinking and inexpensive – the only requirement being that the wine must come from one of Germany's thirteen official wine growing regions. The final level is QmP, which is the strictest level of German wines. The qualification consists of 6 levels, based on ripeness level at harvest, though that does not always translate into sweetness level.
Here are a few definitions to help in picking out a German QmP wine:
Kabinett(cab-ee-NET)The driest level, Kabinett is usually light-bodied, low to medium in alcohol, and fairly dry. Great everyday wine and food-friendly.
Spatlese(shpate-LAY-zuh)Grapes are picked a bit later than Kabinett (Spatlese means late harvest) and have a fuller, more intense body. Most wines of this level are dry although some are off-dry.
Auslese(OWSE-lay-zuh)Wines of this level are made from select grapes harvested even later than Spatlese. The grapes are selected in bunches to make sure they are of the perfect ripeness level. One step up in both body and sweetness, Auslese wines are balanced but with a bit more sweetness – perfect with spicy Indian food.
Beerenauslese(bare-ehn-owse-lay-zuh)The longer the words get, the higher up in sweetness level you rise. Like Auslese, the grapes are selected individually, but while Auslese is selected bunches, Beerenauslese are selected berries, and usually berries affected by botrytis, or noble rot, so you have an even more specific wine, which, in turn, increases both its sweetness level and its price.
Trockenbeerenauslese(trok-ehn-bare-ehn-owse-lay-zuh)Okay, so Trocken means dry in German and yet this wine is the sweetest of the German levels. The "trocken" comes into play as the berries picked for this wine are dried, intensifying the sugars. So the wine is made from late-harvest dried berries affected with botrytis - a combination that makes a decadent (and expensive!) bottle of wine. A treat if you are able to ever try one.
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