Donnhoff Niederhauser Hermannshohle Riesling Spatlese 2004
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Robert Parker's Wine Advocate
The 2004 Neiderhauser Hermannshohle Riesling Spatlese A.P. #10 displays a positively supernal aroma, combining distilled strength berries, herbs and pit fruits with mysteriously carnal and pungently mineral suggestions. Rich, dense and meaty, plush and creamy in texture, yet bright, animated and rivetingly complex on the palate, this wine offers a bonus of beautifully integrated, exotically spicy, estrous notes of botrytis. (The botrytis berries in the Brucke were picked out to inform Auslesen – not so here.) The nearly endless reverberating finish reminds me of the complexity of overtones produced when a second set of hands depresses ten additional keys while you strike a full chord on the piano. On reflection, I was amazed to realize that no wine had so far surpassed a Spatlese from Norheimer Dellchen. But I was even more amazed to be offered at this point yet another wine of the same name!
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Wine Spectator
Fine clarity to the peach, red berry and citrus flavors in this round yet vividly structured white. The point-counterpoint between richness and acidity frames the flavors and carries them to a long conclusion. Drink now through 2020.
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The grandchild of the estate‘s founder, Helmut Dönnhoff, paved the way for international success by establishing an enduring quality and style in his wines. His vintages would in fact become a byword for renowned German Rieslings the world over. Following his training at his parents‘ estate and university studies in winegrowing, he assumed responsibility for both vineyard and cellar starting in 1971. “Extraordinary wines are based on extraordinary vineyards. I‘m fortunate to have had the opportunity to acquire several world-class sites and in some cases to resume cultivation. It remains very much a privilege for me to produce wine from vineyards of such exceptional quality. It‘s more than I ever could have dreamed when I first started working.” This deep understanding of grand wines and grand vineyards was passed on from father to son to grandson.
The fourth generation now holds the reins: Cornelius Dönnhoff. He began his training in 1999 and, after a series of positions abroad, in 2007 returned to assume responsibility for the estate – initially for the vineyard and cellar, and now for all aspects of the operation. History continues, but the estate remains what it has always been: a family affair in every sense.
Riesling possesses a remarkable ability to reflect the character of wherever it is grown while still maintaining its identity. A regal variety of incredible purity and precision, this versatile grape can be just as enjoyable dry or sweet, young or old, still or sparkling and can age longer than nearly any other white variety. Somm Secret—Given how difficult it is to discern the level of sweetness in a Riesling from the label, here are some clues to find the dry ones. First, look for the world “trocken.” (“Halbtrocken” or “feinherb” mean off-dry.) Also a higher abv usually indicates a drier Riesling.
