Donnhoff Niederhauser Hermannshohle Riesling Auslese Goldkapsel 2002
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Robert Parker's Wine Advocate
Dominated by botrytis and spices, the nose of the 2002 Riesling Auslese Niederhauser Hermannshohle leads to a broad, immensely rich core of enormous concentration. Medium-bodied, laced with spicy noble rot, it has tremendous depth, power, and length. It is rather fitting that both of the estate’s 2002 Auslesen are only available in half-bottles, a sign that Donnhoff himself realizes they are more than Auslesen, deserving to be treated (and served) as Beerenauslesen. Anticipated maturity: 2010-2030.
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Wine Spectator
Great clarity here, setting the stage for the floral, pear and apricot notes, all in an elegant presentation. It tails off a little on the finish, yet shows nice delineation.
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The grandchild of the estate‘s founder, Helmut Dönnhoff, paved the way for international success by establishing an enduring quality and style in his wines. His vintages would in fact become a byword for renowned German Rieslings the world over. Following his training at his parents‘ estate and university studies in winegrowing, he assumed responsibility for both vineyard and cellar starting in 1971. “Extraordinary wines are based on extraordinary vineyards. I‘m fortunate to have had the opportunity to acquire several world-class sites and in some cases to resume cultivation. It remains very much a privilege for me to produce wine from vineyards of such exceptional quality. It‘s more than I ever could have dreamed when I first started working.” This deep understanding of grand wines and grand vineyards was passed on from father to son to grandson.
The fourth generation now holds the reins: Cornelius Dönnhoff. He began his training in 1999 and, after a series of positions abroad, in 2007 returned to assume responsibility for the estate – initially for the vineyard and cellar, and now for all aspects of the operation. History continues, but the estate remains what it has always been: a family affair in every sense.
Riesling possesses a remarkable ability to reflect the character of wherever it is grown while still maintaining its identity. A regal variety of incredible purity and precision, this versatile grape can be just as enjoyable dry or sweet, young or old, still or sparkling and can age longer than nearly any other white variety. Somm Secret—Given how difficult it is to discern the level of sweetness in a Riesling from the label, here are some clues to find the dry ones. First, look for the world “trocken.” (“Halbtrocken” or “feinherb” mean off-dry.) Also a higher abv usually indicates a drier Riesling.