While the trend in wine today is toward special blends and reserve bottlings, which allows a domaine to charge more per bottle while taking the best parcels out of the regular blend, Domaine Vieux Telegraphe has always stuck by their traditional Chateauneuf bottling, insisting that to take anything out would be a compromise in quality. But since the Chateaneuf du Papes from Vieux Telegraphe can be firm and unyielding in youth, the Bruiners have decided to bottle a wine from their younger vines. It is made with grapes that are destined for the traditional Vieux Telegraphe bottling but are still two or three years away. This wine, which they call Vieux Mas de Papes, comes from the same stony terrain and receives the same careful vinification as the classic bottling. It shows typical Vieux Telegraphe richness and complexity, and yet the tannins are softer and more finessed, making it perfect at table, especially with lamb, beef and braised dishes.