One cannot think of Chateauneuf-du-Pape, the most celebrated cru of the Southern Rhone, without thinking of Domaine du Vieux Telegraphe. The Brunier family is legendary in its own right, having
been rooted to the enigmatic plateau known as "La Crau" for over one hundred years.
The wines of Vieux Telegraphe evoke the concept of terroir in its purest form: they reflect their dramatic climate, the rough terrain that defines the soil, their full sun exposure at a higher altitude, the typicity of the varietals with an emphasis on Grenache, and of course, the influence of their caretakers, the Brunier family. For many, La Crau is Chateauneuf-du-Pape's grandest cru.
"Tightly coiled for now, with pepper garrigue and briar notes wrapped around a core of steeped cherry, damson plum and blackberry fruit. Cedar and sandalwood accents line the finish, revealing a hint of blood orange. This needs some cellaring to unwind fully."
"Bright ruby-red. Black raspberry, cherry compote, potpourri and Asian spices on the highly perfumed nose. Juicy red and dark berry flavors stain the palate, showing terrific clarity and spicy lift. The spicy quality comes back strong on the finish, which is framed by silky, harmonious tannins. In a graceful, almost weightless style, with zero excess fat but noteworthy flavor intensity. I underestimated this wine last year."
International Wine Cellar
"Forward and up-front, especially by this cuvee-s standards, the 2011 Vieux Telegraphe Chateauneuf (65% Grenache from 70-year-old vines, 15% Syrah, 15% Mourvedre and the balance other permitted varieties) exhibits perfumed aromas of herbs de Provence, seaweed wrapper, garrigue and olive to go with plenty of sweet kirsch and berry fruit. Medium-bodied, fresh and elegant, with fine tannin, it can be consumed now (with a decant) or cellared for a decade. Drink now-2025."
The Wine Advocate