Domaine de la Mordoree Tavel La Dame Rousse Rose 2014
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Robert
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Robert Parker's Wine Advocate
Truthfully, I think the 2014 Tavel La Dame Rousse is every bit as profound as the more expensive Reine des Bois cuvee, and the entry level Cotes du Rhone rosé, while made in a slightly more fresh style, is just as good as well. Sporting similar notes of framboise, orange blossom, white flowers and strawberries, it's a bigger, rich release that might lack a touch of the finesse and elegance found in the Reine des Bois, yet makes up for it with fabulous intensity, depth and length, while still staying clean, classy and pure. It's an incredible, full-bodied, beautiful rosé that's not for those looking for simple and quaffable.
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Coming from a long line of winegrowers, the Domaine de la Mordoree was created in 1986 with the philosophy of growing the best possible wines. To that purpose, the best plots and the finest varieties have been chosen, and the winemakers implement cultivation methods that aim at really preserving the environment, while combining tradition and modernity.
In the course of time, 55 hectares of vineyards have been grown, spread over 35 different plots and 8 communes. This division comes from the decision of choosing the best "terroirs" with a wide variety of microclimates.
Whether it’s playful and fun or savory and serious, most rosé today is not your grandmother’s White Zinfandel, though that category remains strong. Pink wine has recently become quite trendy, and this time around it’s commonly quite dry. Since the pigment in red wines comes from keeping fermenting juice in contact with the grape skins for an extended period, it follows that a pink wine can be made using just a brief period of skin contact—usually just a couple of days. The resulting color depends on grape variety and winemaking style, ranging from pale salmon to deep magenta.
The only all-rosé appellation in the Rhone, a Tavel comes in many hues from light salmon to bright pink and is said to be the only rosé that can actually age—and improve. The rosé wines of Tavel have a great historic reputation, having been favored by King Louis XIV in the 18th century, as well as famous authors, Balzac and Mistral.
Tavel are always dry but the high percentage of the fruity Grenache (30-60% of the blend by law) and even Cinsault, give charming aromas and flavors that make them feel "almost sweet." A great Tavel rosé will have a bouquet suggestive of rose petals, apricot, strawberry and red currant. The palate may be fleshy, round and layered but is always fresh and balanced.