This wine rewards careful attention. Initially one notices what is NOT there, more than what IS there. On the nose: No oak. The fruit is in the background, hardly perceptible at first. In fact, at first sniff about the only thing one notices is the clean-soapy-after-a-bath-smell. On the palate: Initially, only minerality, and a salinity that borders on downright saltiness, with precious little fruit. But spend a little time with this wine and then, on the nose, you will begin to detect lovely honey-and-orange blossoms, and on the palate, peach, melon, sour crabapple--all distinct and precise, but also all very subtle. This is wine worth paying attention to, but if you don't pay attention, you might miss it entirely. (Note: I am drinking and reviewing this wine in early 2013 when it is five years old, so it is almost certainly not the same "exhuberant" wine described in Wine Advocate. With age, it has become more restrained and subtle, more interesting.)
