This is becoming very fine, and
watch out; it's entirely different from its old apples-and-butter form, more oystery and
chalky and ginger and talc, with the apple-butter thing skulking in the mid-palate. It's
racy, on the tensile side. I'd be a lot happier with three more grams of rs, but you won't
agree if you prefer a vigorously dry Champagne.