There is something remarkably decadent, verging upon the politically incorrect about the gewürztraminer grape. It is as if nature has been wildly prodigal, dispensing far more of the haunting, seductive aroma than is strictly required to do the job. whatever that job might be - complement a dish of choucroute, entice a young balm out to the edge of the schoolyard fence, whatever. We continue to secretly obsess at a discreet distance, in a somewhat Humbrecht-Humbrechtean fashion, truth be told, on the remarkable qualities of gewürz, especially produced à la façon alsacienne. We have reprised the unorthodox technique of fermentation in brand spanking (steady, man) new Vosges (keeping it in the neighborhood) puncheons. This little nymphet, sorry, fresh, young, dry, insanely aromatic white wine, is a superb complement to all manner of charcuterie. most especially Pig.