Ramon Bilbao's Gran Reserva 1998 features a tawny rim framing a lovely deep, ruby-red wine, with a dark cherry core. The aromas are very complex and open up after some airing, leading to balsamic fragrances, very ripe fruit and prominent quality wood. Leather and tobacco, with notes of fruits in liqueur, also appear. It has a well-balanced taste, with appreciable notes of cedar and coffee liqueur, leading to a long, persistent finish.
"This shares the rose-garden aromatics of Bilbao's 2001, a dark, earthy complexity joined
here to a more delicate, gentle red. Oak age has turned the texture to velvet and
contributed a range of spices, from cinnamon to cedar and licorice. Tightly built, this is
suited to roast leg of lamb with rosemary, or to several more years of aging." -Wine & Spirits, Sept 2007