Kuljian produces a Syrah that is more opulent and hedonistic than Saralee's. This 2004 is deeply colored and packed with dark fruit, plums, earth, and Chinese camphor. As in past vintages, it has a character that can best be described as smoked butcher block. Big, ripe and dense, this is a brooding wine with rich ripe tannins and great aging potential.
Among red varieties Syrah reigns supreme in its ability to produce great wine from both warm and cold sites. The warm locales give us intensely colored wines that are overt and voluptuous. The cooler sites produce exotically scented bottlings of structure and elegance. Dry Creek Valley's Kuljian Vineyards is one of those rare sites possessing the best attributes of both climatic categories.