Vinos de Arganza Alvarez de Toledo Godello 2010
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Robert
Parker
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Robert Parker's Wine Advocate
Alvarez de Toledo’s new releases include one white wine, the 2010 Godello. This unoaked beauty delivers a lovely perfume of baking spices, melon, peaches, and mineral. Round, spicy, and pleasure-bent, this smooth-textured, impeccably balanced effort over-delivers in a very big way. Drink it over the next 3-4 years.
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2022-
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Wilfred
Wong
Vinos de Arganza is a dynamic young winery located in Toral de los Vados just south of Villafranca del Bierzo in the heart of the Bierzo region. It was established in 2000 when it produced its first young wines followed by its first Crianza and Reserva in 2003. It is a family-run winery owned by Victor Robla who is a very well respected and devoted winemaker in Bierzo. They own 20 hectares of their own vineyards as well as holding long-term contracts with selected vineyard owners of the area. Alongside his wife, Angeles Varela, whose family has winemaking roots dating back to the 15th century, the main objective of the winery is to make the most of the terroir, producing wines from fruit of old vines while utilizing both modern and traditional methods to create wines of both old and new world characteristics.
El Bierzo today is possibly one of the most exciting wine regions in Spain, and the Mencia grape, indigenous to the region, is the star red grape while Godello, with its floral, ripe fruit and green apple characteristics is the major quality white grape variety. Characteristically, Mencia has delicious red and black fruit flavors with tones of graphite terroir which is what makes these wines so special. The Godello, despite its small production has been attracting attention and loyalty among producers and consumers alike. DO Bierzo is located in the northwest of the province of Castile and León and covers an area of just under 4000 ha of vineyards, some of which are over 100 years old. Even though vine cultivation can be traced back to the ancient Greek inhabitants, it was the Romans who were the first to develop agriculture and to introduce new crops including Vitis Vinifera vines, and new technology such as the Roman plough. The greatest expansion of viticulture, however, was related to the growth of the monasteries, especially the Cistercian order, during the Middle Ages. The low altitude, ranging from 500m to 650m, helps to prevent late frosts and means that the grape harvest is usually about one month earlier than in Castile.
White grapes are used in two famous types of Spanish wine, Sherry and Cava, but we will limit this discussion to still whites. Let’s begin with perhaps the best known and most highly regarded internationally, Albariño . Produced in the region of Rías Baixas, just above Portugal in northwestern Spain, Albariño typically sees no or little oak and is medium to medium-plus in body. Aroma and flavor notes often include citrus and peach, often with subtle floral notes and a suggestion of sea spray, giving the wine a zesty feel. Often bottled as a single varietal, Albariño is sometimes blended with other indigenous grapes like Loureira and Treixadura. Try one of these Spanish whites from Forjas del Salnes.
Let’s look at a few other Spanish white wines. Godello also hails from northwestern Spain and presents a profile of grapefruit, minerality and a slight smoky quality. Enjoy a bottle from Bodegas Avancia. The region of Rueda, northwest of Madrid, is home to Verdejo , which makes refreshing, un-oaked white wines whose herbal vibrancy recalls Sauvignon Blanc . Protos makes a tasty version. Up north in the Basque region, we find the wine called Txakoli (sometimes called Txakolina). Pronounced “sha-ko-LEE,” it’s made from a local grape called Hondurrabi Zuri and is light, fresh, citrusy, dry … and with razor sharp acidity that makes it a fantastic partner with local seafood and tapas. Ameztoi Gertariako is a good Spanish white wine producer to check out.
The Penedѐs region, best known for the oceans of delicious Cava it sends to the world, also produces still Spanish whites, sometimes from international varieties like Chardonnay , and often from the same grapes used for Cava. These include Parellada, Xarel-lo and Macabeo. Avaline produces a fine example of Penedes white. Finally, we visit the Rioja region. While it is historically and internationally famous for its reds, Rioja also produces fine Spanish white wines. These are usually based on Viura (the local name for Macabeo) and make good everyday sippers, although some aged versions can be stunningly complex. A good place to start is the white Rioja from Bodegas Muga.
As you can see, Spanish white wines offer a vast opportunity for exploration!