The structure 1999 DeSoto is impressive. The tannins are held in reserve by the modest acidity, the combined effect of which is like an enormous velvet curtain, monolithic in presence yet exquisitely soft. The flavors diverge from our expectation of Carneros Pinot Noir, showing tar, mushroom, tea and char. Bold flavors deserve recipes that are equally endowed. Grilled dry-aged beef parallels the flavors, and is worthy of the wine 's ample tannins. Cellar for three to six years.