Bartolo Mascarello Barolo 2019
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Maria Teresa Mascarello compared the 2019 of her Barolo (which will be released in September 2023) with the famed 1999 vintage. Fermented and aged in oak for 36 months, this blend of four MGAs – Cannubi, Rocche dell'Annunziata, Monrobiolo di Bussia and Ruè – will, from 2020, also incorporate grapes from San Lorenzo. Full of earthy tones, tar, smoky woodland and the elegance of leafy lightness, it shines for its depth and complexity, with the first hints of bergamot and potpourri. The palate is stylish, with firm, youthful, grainy yet sweet tannins allied to refreshing acidity of amazing delicacy; forward and zesty. An incredible structure wrapped up in a silk scarf.
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Robert Parker's Wine Advocate
Coming to market this fall, the Bartolo Mascarello 2019 Barolo represents a classic vintage in between two challenging growing seasons. Both 2018 and 2020 were hotter than 2019, resulting in higher alcohol levels. With fruit harvested on October 8th and 9th, this expression from 2019 shows extra freshness and a more streamlined style compared to the texturally generous 2020 or the softer and more open-knit 2018. Extraction and structure came easily in 2019, and delicate pump-overs sufficed. Maria Teresa Mascarello opted against submerged cap fermentations in 2022, 2019, 2017 and 2013. It was performed in 2016, 2014 and 2010, however. The fruit represents a blend of Monrobiolo in Bussia (a site with a lease that ends in 2025), Rue and Cannubi in Barolo and Rocche dell’Annunziata in La Morra. San Lorenzo will return to the blend in 2020. Rating: 98+
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Jeb Dunnuck
The 2019 Barolo saw a gentle fermentation without implementing a submerged cap and is a more forward and linear wine, with rhubarb, pomegranate, and orange peel. It retains a medium body with a more direct nature, with refined tannins and racy acidity that is citrus-driven with notes of ripe apricot and red raspberry. This is an outstanding wine to hold a few years and drink over the coming decades.
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Wine Spectator
Round and elegant, offsetting cherry and raspberry flavors with balsamic notes of sandalwood, rosemary and thyme. Reveals earth and iron accents that complete the profile, while refined tannins hold court on the lingering finish.
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Responsible for some of the most elegant and age-worthy wines in the world, Nebbiolo, named for the ubiquitous autumnal fog (called nebbia in Italian), is the star variety of northern Italy’s Piedmont region. Grown throughout the area, as well as in the neighboring Valle d’Aosta and Valtellina, it reaches its highest potential in the Piedmontese villages of Barolo, Barbaresco and Roero. Outside of Italy, growers are still very much in the experimentation stage but some success has been achieved in parts of California. Somm Secret—If you’re new to Nebbiolo, start with a charming, wallet-friendly, early-drinking Langhe Nebbiolo or Nebbiolo d'Alba.
The center of the production of the world’s most exclusive and age-worthy red wines made from Nebbiolo, the Barolo wine region includes five core townships: La Morra, Monforte d’Alba, Serralunga d’Alba, Castiglione Falletto and the Barolo village itself, as well as a few outlying villages. The landscape of Barolo, characterized by prominent and castle-topped hills, is full of history and romance centered on the Nebbiolo grape. Its wines, with the signature “tar and roses” aromas, have a deceptively light garnet color but full presence on the palate and plenty of tannins and acidity. In a well-made Barolo wine, one can expect to find complexity and good evolution with notes of, for example, strawberry, cherry, plum, leather, truffle, anise, fresh and dried herbs, tobacco and violets.
There are two predominant soil types here, which distinguish Barolo from the lesser surrounding areas. Compact and fertile Tortonian sandy marls define the vineyards farthest west and at higher elevations. Typically the Barolo wines coming from this side, from La Morra and Barolo, can be approachable relatively early on in their evolution and represent the “feminine” side of Barolo, often closer in style to Barbaresco with elegant perfume and fresh fruit.
On the eastern side of the Barolo wine region, Helvetian soils of compressed sandstone and chalks are less fertile, producing wines with intense body, power and structured tannins. This more “masculine” style comes from Monforte d’Alba and Serralunga d’Alba. The township of Castiglione Falletto covers a spine with both soil types.
The best Barolo wines need 10-15 years before they are ready to drink, and can further age for several decades.