Pied Piper of Pinot and Sultan of Screw Caps, Randall Grahm is the founder of Bonny Doon Vineyard. A former "permanent Liberal Arts major" at U.C. Santa Cruz, Grahm began crafting wines according to his own muse in the 1980s, mixing a special fascination for Pinot Noir with his conviction that California's climate is perfect for the sun-loving grapes of the Mediterranean. Grahm takes obvious delight in clever names, funny labels and gentle tomfoolery of all sorts, yet he's also a serious-minded innovator who in 1994 was named Wine and Spirits Professional of the Year by the James Beard Foundation. As the
century turned, Grahm became a convert to screw cap closures, and as of this year nearly 100% of Bonny Doon wines will be sealed with screw caps.
Wine.com: You seem to have a passion for lesser-known European varietals, like Teroldego and Roussanne. Do you have a current "favorite grape"?
Randall Grahm: There is always a cépage du jour that captures my eye, but I must confess that I keep coming back to Riesling and Pinot Noir; I think that I have bonded for life with these grapes.
Wine.com: Jump forward 25 years. What percentage of all wine bottles do you expect will be sealed with screwcaps, and why?
Randall Grahm: In 25 years from now, I would venture that virtually 98% of all bottles will be sealed with screwcaps. At this moment, screwcaps are the absolute state of the art for bottle closure and I would expect this paradigm to last for a while. Which is not to say that 25 years from now an even cooler technology might not emerge.
Wine.com: You meet a lot of people. What's the most frequent comment you hear about screwcaps?
Randall Grahm: "Thank you, thank you, thank you." Or, alternatively, "You have demonstrated co__ones grandes to have done what you did; may you continue to live long and prosper in your studly ways."
Wine.com: You've named wines for a penitentiary (Big House Red) and for alien spacecraft (Le Cigare Volant). Are there any objects you would never name a wine for?
Randall Grahm: I don't think that there are any objects that I would a priori exclude from doonomination on a wine label. It would be great fun to make a wine called Republican Red, but I think that we might run afoul of the ATF, or whoever they're calling themselves these days.
Wine.com: Fresh summer corn: buttered, salted, or plain?
Randall Grahm: Fresh corn plain, but with the caveat that it was picked with the water already aboil.
See all Bonny Doon Wines
Explore all screw cap wines
Buy other wines from California
Return to this week’s newsletter
Interviews from Past Issues:
Sommelier Mark Mendoza talks about
Napa, Portugal and peanut butter
The legendary Guy Buffet talks about waiters, art, and painting for Perrier Jouët
Five questions with Oscar-winner Will Vinton
Photo credit: Alex Krause