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Lagrein is an old native grape, dating back at least 600 years. Heinrich's Riservas are made with an idea to preserve the full-bodied, freshly aromatic woodland berry character of the grape. He does not use any barriques and the wine is bottled a year or so after the harvest and then aged in bottle before release. DOC law allows for a Riserva to be sold 3 years after the harvest at the earliest. It is a deliciously round wine that is served well by decanting for aeration.
"The 2005 Lagrein Riserva is one of the more unique versions of this wine being made in Alto Adige. Texturally the wine conveys a transparency and lightness that recalls Pinot Noir, but the aromas and flavors are clearly those of Lagrein. The wine bursts onto the palate with an explosion of vibrant dark cherries, sweet herbs, earthiness and game framed by firm, yet well-integrated tannins. Initially there is a wild, almost animalistic quality to this Lagrein, yet as the wine sits in the glass it becomes more and more harmonious and the rustic notes fade into the background. This is not an easy wine by any means, but readers looking for a complex Lagrein of notable pedigree will undoubtedly find much to admire here. For optimal enjoyment the wine should be opened 30-60 minutes prior to serving. Needless to say, this is great effort from Nusserhof. Anticipated maturity: 2008-2015.
I can’t say enough good things about the wines of this small estate except to remind readers that these offerings are essential drinking for anyone who wants to get a sense of the artisan tradition in Alto Adige at its very finest.
The Wine Advocate
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