Selbach Oster Bernkasteler Badstube Riesling Spatlese 1999

True or false: the Selbachs got tired of making wine and decided instead to drive to Chuck-E-Cheese and play a rousing game of skee-ball, while Hans-Leo Christoffel came over and made this wine. Why, true of course! Um, actually, I made it up. But this wine was fermented in stainless steel, and it's absolutely thrilling; amazing skeins of delineation in the sensuous bouquet, heart-rending gloss, sheen and brilliance on the palate. Don't think of missing it. Sometimes I wonder if Johannes is playing with me, as if to say, "look, anyone can make wines like these, look, I did it too" or else he's just experimenting and checking out how we respond. Or perhaps he's decided this style of vinification suits the Badstube. I wouldn't want all Sel-Ost wines to be like this one, but YOW, is this one screaming. (7-23 yrs)