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Heidi's were unique Pinot Blancs, but 2000 announced a fundamental change in style. They used to be correct enough, shellfishy, appley and leesy, but they sometimes tasted as though a rogue gene snuck in carrying mimosa-blossom scents that took you to another place entirely, not "northern" and vivid but rather cozier and more murmuring and buttery. "That was cask-aging," says Heidi. Lately she has been emphasizing batonnage and trying to get the wines more compact and dense. Pacific oysters in a glass! Plus the merest (and loveliest) hint of RS, and even a suggestion of Sauvignon Blanc in the finish. By the way, all of Heidi's whites in 2004 have a teensy bit of RS, which does them nothing but good. If I hadn't told you you wouldn't have known, but wondered why the wines were so gol-danged likeable; maize and corn notes, very racy and very ripe; less plump and more vertical then the `03, despite its high alc.
