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Highly scented and finely—fine is the adjective that comes to mind—concentrated wines. It helps too that winemaking here is traditional and simple, with little extraction in the modern sense (Pavillon's wine could well be labeled the antithesis of modern extracted power).
"The Chavannes 2009 Cote de Brouilly Cuvee des Ambassades (their prestige bottling, price notwithstanding) is complexly scented with red currant, kirsch, fresh blackberry, violet, and lavender. Firm and bright on the palate, it offers hints of crushed stone, salt, and beef juices, along with pungent herbs and tart berry skin, leading to a long, fascinating, if understated finish. Don't look for the sweet overt ripeness or exuberance more characteristic of the vintage here – and I wouldn’t doubt that the wine really is under 13% alcohol as its "12.5" inscription intimates – but follow this excellent value over the next 3-4 years and you will be richly rewarded by a versatile dinner companion. "
The Wine Advocate
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