The 1998 Cuvee R. Lalou is a fine, bright shade of gold that captures the light.
This wine unfurls itself in a crescendo. The first impression is of elegance, though this is underpinned by an aromatic complexity that hinders close analysis of the wine with all its interlinking elements. The nose opens on fresh citrus and forthright mineral notes, possibly the hallmark of the parcels at les Bionnes and la Croix de Cramant. Soon afterwards, traces of les Crupots if not les Rochelles can be detected. The wine now shows its full complexity, with aromas of nougat, orange, white flowers and acacia honey. Accents of preserved citrus and exotic fruit, vanilla, hazelnut and praline then come to the fore. All the time, the wine seems to dance back and forth between freshness and maturity.
In the mouth, the wine is clean and lively. It remains finely balanced between structure and acidity despite its complex, generous character. The finish is sound, with a slight bitterness discernible that underlines its remarkable length.
"This prestige cuvée from Mumm is maturing well, although still with many years’ development left. It has a rich, toasty character, with fresh grapefruit and crisp greengages. Drink this opulent Champagne now, or keep for several years."
"Bright yellow-gold with a strong mousse. Meyer lemon, green apple and subtle leesy nuances on the nose, with suave floral honey and green tea notes emerging with air. Medium-bodied citrus and bitter quince flavors are impressively precise, with dusty minerals adding lift and grip. Understated, brisk Champagne with excellent finishing clarity. This is Mumm's first tete de cuvee since the 1985 Lalou.
International Wine Cellar
"An elegant rendition, this has mellowed to a mix of toast, coffee, honey and mineral flavors. There's a light grain to the texture and a freshness that lifts the finish. Drink now through 2020. 200 cases imported."