An exceptional wine. Beautiful, deep-red ruby colour, with the bright sheen of great Burgundies. Intense and fresh nose for the young wines. Primary notes of red fruit dominate, such as Morello cherry ("griotte", or wild cherry), raspberry, blackberry. There are hints of complexity with smoky flavours evolving towards liquorice. When the wine is maturing, aromas of pepper, tobacco, humus and undergrowth appear. When drinking the wine, the first impression is always clear-cut and the texture fleshy. The body is firm without being rough, well meshed without being heavy. There is great freshness in the younger wines. With age, the wine gets rounder. It takes on "gras" (velvety texture) and a more precise architecture, supported by silky tannins. It is lively and refined at the same time. There remains a final and most pleasing sensation of harmony, fullness and delicate tannins, as the wine lingers on the palate.
"The Drouhin 2006 Beaune Clos des Mouches as usual reflects extensive acreage planted largely with old selection massale vines and pampered as a flagship. Stylistically, too, this is another world from that in the glass of this year's Beaune Greves. Here we have thought-provoking complexity of animal and mineral nuances allied to a rather brooding, dark fruit fundament with a bitter herbal edge. There is spice here as well, but of a sharply penetrating and pungent sort, suggesting raw ginger and white pepper. At the same time, this shares with nearly all of the Drouhin wines of its vintage a soothing creaminess allied to an overtly lactic flavor component which I don't find disturbing or discordant, though some might. The contrast of textural allure and pungent attack persists here into a long, satisfying and stimulating finish."
The Wine Advocate
"Yellow fruits, pepper and crushed stone on the nose. Very broad and uncompromisingly dry in the mouth, with soil-driven flavors of pineapple and stone and a hint of spicy youthful reduction. Dense but light on its feet-and utterly unevolved. There's just a couple hundred feet of altitude between the bottom and the top of this vineyard but the fruit was picked over a period of a full week.
International Wine Cellar