Guigal Condrieu 2010
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Robert Parker's Wine Advocate
The 2010 Condrieu is even more perfumed and intense, boasting stunning minerality in addition to copious notes of honeysuckle, lychee nut and mango. Drink this luscious, medium to full-bodied white over the next 3-5 years. One of the truly profound wines of the appellation is Guigal’s Condrieu La Doriane, which comes from estate vineyards located in some of Condrieu’s finest terroirs, such as Cote Chatillon, Volnats, Colombier and the Coteaux du Chery. Aged in 100% new oak (although it never shows) and put through malolactic fermentation, these are great Condrieus that age well (I mistakenly pulled a 2001 Condrieu La Doriane out of my cellar thinking it was the 2009, and I was shocked to discover how fresh and lively it was at age ten.). Nevertheless, I still have a strong predilection for drinking them in their exuberant youth, during their first 3-4 years of life.
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Wine Spectator
A broad, friendly style, with lots of toasted almond, brioche, creamed pear and fig notes that glide through the ripe, creamy finish.
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Wine & Spirits
Textbook Condrieu, this hits all the touchstones—peaches, honeysuckle, stones—with grace. While the wine feels almost unctuous in texture, the flavors remain light and clean, buoyed by a fine, firm acidity. For monkfish in brown butter.
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The Guigal domain was founded in 1946 by Etienne Guigal in the ancient village of Ampuis, home of the wines of the Côte-Rôtie. In these vineyards that are over 2400 years old, you can still see the small terraced walls characteristic of the Roman period. Etienne Guigal arrived in this region in 1923 at the age of 14. He made wine for over 67 vintages and, at the beginning of his career, participated in the development of the Vidal-Fleury establishment.
Despite his young age, Marcel Guigal took over from his father in 1961 when the latter was victim to a brutal illness rendering him blind. Marcel's hard work and perseverance enabled the Guigals to buy out Vidal-Fleury in 1984, although the establishment retains its own identity and commercial autonomy. In 2000, the Guigals purchased the Jean-Louis Grippat estate in Saint-Joseph and Hermitage, as well as the Domaine de Vallouit in Côte-Rôtie, Hermitage, Saint-Joseph and Crozes-Hermitage.
In the cellars of the Guigal estate in Ampuis, the northern appellations of the Rhône Valley are produced and aged. These are the appellations of Côte-Rôtie, Condrieu, Hermitage, Saint-Joseph and Crozes-Hermitage. The great appellations of the Southern Rhône, Chateauneuf-du-Pape, Gigondas, Tavel and Côtes-du-Rhône, are also aged in the Ampuis cellars.
Full-figured and charmingly floral, Viognier is one of the most important white grapes of the northern Rhône where it is used both to produce single varietal wines and as an important blending grape. Look for great New World examples from California, Oregon, Washington and cooler parts of Australia. Somm Secret—Viognier plays a surprisingly important role in the red wines of Côte Rôtie in the northern Rhône. About 5% Viognier is typically co-fermented with the Syrah in order to stabilize the color, and as an added benefit, add a subtle perfume.
As the source of some of the most vibrant and powerful white wines in France, Condrieu is uniquely situated in one of the northern outposts of the Rhone River. It is the original Viognier appellation with a wine growing history reaching back well over two thousand years. Like most of the wine regions of the Northern Rhone, Condrieu’s vines grow on extremely steep and narrow granite terraces. But what makes the region unique is a topsoil, locally called, “arzelle,” made of decomposed mica. This and a sheltering of the harsh northern winds, make optimal sites to produce opulent and brilliant Viognier. It is a tiny zone with no room for expansion and produces miniscule amounts of wine each year, contributing to its allure.
A fine Condrieu will have aromas and flavors suggestive of ripe stone fruit, lime peel, green almond, ginger, white flowers and toasted nuts. A honeyed smell may mislead you to think the wine will be sweet but the modern style favors totally dry on the palate. Its texture will be full and soft but a touch of mineral will provide great balance.