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A single-vineyard wine of unusual authority and texture, but unmistakable origin, from schist-grown vines over 60 years old. A Muscadet for those who appreciate fruit as well as the authentic saline minerality of the genre.
"Gilbert Chon's 2009 Muscadet de Sevre et Maine Sur Lie Clos de la Chapelle Vieilles Vignes – as has been the case with previous bottlings from him – somewhat suggests Riesling in its evocations of peach, black currant, iris, and lime, which extend not only to a perfumed nose but also to a palate that marries density with levity and delivers a scintillating interplay of fruit, salinity, and seemingly crystalline mineral notes in its long, succulent finish. Intriguing suggestions of shrimp shell reduction, iodine, and meat stock emerge with air. This terrific value is a must-try Muscadet even for someone who doesn’t generally find that the genre hits his or her sweet spot. It should be mouthwatering to follow for at least the next couple of years. (Incidentally, Chon is among the few Loire growers to employ screwcap closure – or at least, for the exported portion of his portfolio.)"
90 Points
The Wine Advocate
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