Eric Forest Pouilly Fuisse Haut de Crays 2006

A dazzling cuvée and the highlight of Forest's lineup. These 75-year-old vines perched at the top of the rock represent original Chardonnay rootstock, gnarled vines that stayed put while so much of the valley was pulled up for high-yield clones. Each plant has its own personality, Forest says, and it's immediately evident in the profound complexity of this outstanding wine. Little soil but a lot of "mother rock" here gives the wine incredible minerality; a round, sweet mouth of peaches and pears is delectable. Aged 25% in new wood.

"Bright yellow. Pungent, mineral-driven pear and Meyer lemon on the nose, with a gentle smoky quality building in the glass. Peach pit and vanilla bean flavors are brightened by citrus pith and chalky minerality, which add vivacity and carry through the finish. A suave melange of depth and energy, with wonderful balance and the stuffing to repay cellaring."
International Wine Cellar