The least primary of all DuMOL 2009 Pinot releases but possibly the most stylish, this wine is all about subtle nuanced complexity but also has the structure to evolve into something really special with at least five years in the bottle. Its firm tannins and precise acidity move the emphasis from overt fruit toward the earthy side of the Pinot spectrum, as we would expect from this vineyard combination in this cool season. The aromatics take some swirling to coax from the glass but when they flow they have a uniqueness and signature found in
only the finest Californian pinots. DuMOL opted to harvest the vineyard blocks that comprise this bottling a little earlier than previously and it's this youthful signature that really drives the wine.
If you enjoyed the 2006 Ryanbottling you will want to invest in this sibling. It takes the cool season nuance of the '06 and adds additional
layers of dark cocoa, violet and menthol to the mix alongside a richness of texture and back end power that are really compelling. This will be another great wine to follow for up to a decade.
"Bright ruby-red. Explosive aromas of black raspberry, boysenberry, potpourri and smoky minerals. Lush, deeply pitched bitter cherry and dark berry preserve flavors are enlivened by zesty minerality and pick up floral and spice notes with air. This alluringly scented, energetic pinot finishes with excellent clarity and clinging sweetness."
International Wine Cellar
"The 2009 Pinot Noir Ryan is another very pretty and complete wine. Freshly cut flowers, red berries, spices and licorice are some of the many notes that take shape in the glass. Underlying veins of minerality support the fruit and give the wine much of its energy. I don’t find the same level of complexity or interest here as I do with the best wines in this lineup, but in exchange, the Ryan will be ready to drink pretty much right out of the gate. The vineyard sources are Widdoes and Abbott. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2021."
The Wine Advocate
"Firm and intense, with layers of wild berry, black cherry, plum and spice flavors. This is aromatic and full-bodied, gaining a loamy earthiness and lively chai tea spiciness on the finish. Drink now through 2019."
"Leaning ever so slightly away from ripeness and fruity flesh and a little more to minerally firmness, the new "ryan" release is a tense and finely tuned youngster with a little less swagger and a little more nuance. It smacks of stones and cherry skins, and its evident acids accentuate a bit of back-palate astringency, but it is not cut off by either, and its vigorous fruit stays the course. It is sufficiently tight as to make aging is a necessity rather than a beneficial option, and we would like to see it set aside for no fewer than four or five years."