DuMOL Estate Pinot Noir 2009
DuMOL Estate Pinot Noir 2009
from Russian River, California
This is the third vintage from DuMOL's densely-planted Estate vineyard and they are starting to see a real signature evolving that is apparent throughout each vintage. The tight spacing (4x3 feet verses the normal 7x5) limits the amount of direct sunlight on the clusters themselves, protecting the bright fruit aromas and nuances that
can be lost through over exposure in the climate.
This 'aroma potential' is never more apparent than in this new Estate bottling – the wine just leaps out of the glass at you, but not in a clumsy full throttle way. Rather it's elegant, stylish and quite beguiling. You get a sense of acidity underpinning the wine throughout and some really unusual inner-mouth dried flower characters that only boost its distinctive complexity. It demonstrates perfectly how a wide array of subtle nuances, layers of diverse aroma and flavor can gradually build, broaden, envelope, transition and flow into one another to produce something that transcends simple fruitiness to bring a special site character and signature with the complexity that sets it apart. This really hits the high notes and progresses into rarified territory among its Californian pinot peers.
"While we go back and forth in deciding just which of DuMOL's latests is our pick of the bunch, this estate bottling wins a place at the very head of the class. It is as wonderfully pure in fruit as it is impeccably balanced with perfectly ripened fruit running its length. It is so supple and polished in feel as to be almost too easy to taste in its youth, but it is structured and firm beneath its smooth façade, and its length on the palate is stunning. It hints at layering and complexity to come, so again, if its sheer fruity succulence does not draw you in and compel pulling its cork a little too early, know that it will reward aging and promises to grow incrementally more and more complex in the half-dozen or so years ahead."
"Bright violet color. Exotic, heady aromas of dark cherry, black raspberry, licorice, violet, white pepper and cola. Sappy and structured, with gently chewy texture and powerful, deeply concentrated red and dark fruit flavors energized by minerals and Asian spices. Impressively concentrated but also strikingly elegant and poised. Shows great precision and energy on the long, floral finish."
International Wine Cellar
"This notably graceful and elegant Pinot delivers delicate wilted rose, blueberry and black cherry fruit that's supple and detailed, with a long, lingering finish. Drink now through 2021. Tasted twice, with consistent notes."
"The 2009 Pinot Noir Estate is another big, textured wine. It possesses stunning depth and richness from start to finish. Dark red berries, flowers, leather and licorice come together beautifully in this seamless, inviting wine. Cinnamon, exotic spices and star anise develop in the glass, adding further dimensions of complexity. This big boy needs time. The Estate is made from a young, high-density vineyard planted just five years ago with Calera, Swan and Pommard clones. Anticipated maturity: 2014-2024."
The Wine Advocate
"A wine with beautiful purity of ripe fruit with strawberries, spices, and lemon skin. Full body, with fine tannins and a lovely textured finish. Drink now or hold."
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