This Jurançon surprises: already a wine of enjoyment, this has a the character of an age-worthy wine. Yellow-gold in color with incredible brightness. The background has hints of smoke while the bouquet is dominated by tangerines and fruit confit. In the mouth, the balance is harmonious and rich. There is a favorable evolution of flavors, a dominant core of exotic fruits. This will age well for a decade.
"While I am cheating since its price of $25 applies to a 500 ml. bottle, I did not want to miss this opportunity to report on Bellegarde’s 100% old vines Petit Manseng 2004 Jurancon Cuvee Thibault because if you want to discover the genuine mysteries of Jurancon, here is the real deal! The concentration and sweetness of this wine (like most of its genre) originated in spontaneous desiccation of lateharvested fruit, not in botrytis. Musky, floral, candied citrus rind, and indelicate butcher shop aromas guarantee you will do a double take over a glass of this elixir (whether or not you proceed!). A veritable explosion of citrus zest, honey and flowers in the mouth continues to be accompanied by musky, carnal notes that make you wonder how they can come from grapes. The long, haunting finish is only subtly sweet, since somehow a mere 5.6 grams acidity has rendered 180 grams of residual sugar practically irrelevant. Such are the mysteries of this ultimate foie gras wine, which however will be found remarkably versatile by those who keep a bottle on hand. It will remain fresh for at least a week in your refrigerator and evolve fascinatingly in bottle for at least a dozen years."
The Wine Advocate