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This wine is produced from our oldest vines, which have fewer, smaller grapes with a more concentrated flavor. We are able to harvest the grapes later because there is far less risk of rot, owing to the small bunches. The grapes are very ripe and have a high natural sugar level. The wine is vinified in traditional Burgundy methods. Ancien is a deeply colored wine with a bouquet of red fruit and very soft tannins. It can be drunk relatively young but is probably best at 2 to 3 years old. This is a wine well balanced with natural sugar and acidity.
"The latest vintage of Terres Doree’s flagship, 2007 L’Ancien Vieilles Vignes may or may not be labeled “Beaujolais” as well, depending on when you buy it. Due to the volume produced and the regulations of the French quality “watchdogs” three sets of samples of the same wine had to be submitted to the committee of growers who authorize the appellation controllee. The first submission was approved, but the subsequent submissions of exactly the same wine weren’t just refused, they were repeatedly reported to be full of off-aromas. Truth be told, Brun’s conception of “ancient method” Beaujolais is simply not widely shared by the down-trodden majority of Beaujolais growers, and thus he joins the lengthening line of refusnik vignerons who can wear that status as an honor. To paraphrase Churchill: “In the morning, my wine will all be sold, but yours will still be insipid.” And how does this renegade Beaujolais actually taste? Its vivid aromas and flavors of tart fresh cherry are allied to flowers and distilled berries in the nose and a positively chewy sense of fruit skin on the palate. Salty, chalky notes add complexity to the most invigorating and indelible finish you are apt to encounter in any under-$20 red wine."
The Wine Advocate
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