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When we last spoke, spice and perfume merchants were haggling over lavender oil, rose petals and sandalwood while sipping dry rosé at a sidewalk café in Grasse, deep in the heart of Provence. And why would they not sip rosé, a potation which so strongly evokes the invigorating fragrance of wild aromatic herbs and botanicals common to the south of France? The 2004 Vin Gris is not the pudgy, alcoholic endomorph one might expect from such a hot, early year. In fact, the acid is a bit more pronounced compared to the previous vintage, perhaps because the wine is once again bone dry, unlike the ever so confected 2003. This 2004 is indeed one of the more classically styled editions of Vin Gris to date. All the signifiers we have come to associate with classic Provençal style rosé are there—a definite suggestion of aromatic herbs, citrus rind, rosehips and hibiscus along with a very pleasing, mild astringency on the back palate. This makes for a delicious apéritif, and allows the wine to pair much more elegantly with a wide variety of foods. Here one might imagine poached salmon, assorted birds or, if one fancies oneself a true Provençal, a bowl of bouillabaisse or a generous portion of ratatouille.
