I’ve written before about Andrew Will wines. The flagship Sorella is probably my most consistent favorite of all the wines I’ve encountered. Sorella never ceases to impress me with its seductiveness, consistency of quality, and understatement of presence. It’s a great wine but its restraint beckons you to learn that for yourself; it won’t scream it out to you. So yes, while I love Sorella, I have also come to appreciate that the winemaker and proprietor of Andrew Will – Chris Carmada – has several other wines to offer. Tonight, I pulled his ’04 Champoux blend out of the cellar for accompaniment to my husband’s phenomenal grilled steaks and spice rubbed pork loin. I have to tell you, it is incredible. This is the exemplification of what it is to pair wine and food so well. The wine is wondrous. It’s serious and brooding. I don’t know if the wine makes the meat better or if the meat makes the wine better but I have my suspicion that it is the former. I’m not much of a carnivore, but this I can definitely appreciate. Carmada’s Champoux blend is 44 percent cabernet sauvignon, 25 percent cabernet franc, 22 percent merlot, and 9 percent petite verdot. It’s not so different from Sorella but it has a bit more cabernet franc and less cabernet sauvignon and I think I like that. The aromas bring to mind blackberries, plums, cassis, and chocolate but there’s also the smoke, cedar, and graphite. It’s just like Sorella, but no, it’s not. It’s a different presentation. I can’t help but be entirely impressed each time I open an Andrew Will wine. It’s fine for sipping alone, but it’s even better with a lovingly prepared meal and good company. In my mind, that’s priceless.